They always say that getting your windows installed is a major milestone, and it definitely feels like we’ve been waiting our fair share of time!
Luckily, today (also my birthday) saw the first of our windows installed. After weeks of having to mop up puddles and leaks across the house, it is a relief to see them close all the holes in the house.
It’ll take a couple of days to install all the windows, but the doors will be a little longer as well as our fabled skylight (the subject of a whole post by itself).
While our builders have been busy outside finishing off the block work, our carpenter from Maple Leaf Carpentry and Construction has been busy inside with all sorts of first-fix carpentry work.
Alongside the more usual noggins and framing work, he’s also been putting up some acoustic insulation in the ground floor ceiling. As well as keeping in the warmth, this should also reduce the amount of floor noise from above.
To further reduce this noise, we’re also adding resilient bars. These are metal bars that are screwed in on one side and loose on the other. The plasterboard for the ceiling is attached to these bars, and so is actually “floating” and this also reduces noise transfer.
While we wait for the roof at the front of the house to be completed (pending installation of the skylight), the roof at the back is complete, and we took the opportunity a few days ago to have the guttering installed while the scaffolding is still at the correct height.
We opted for an aluminium “ogee”-style seamless gutter in the same colour as the roof (anthracite). The “ogee”-style simply means that the gutter has a distinctive S-shaped profile at the front to add some detail.
While guttering can be purchased in lengths and attached, we went with a seamless version where the entire length of the gutter is extruded on-site and installed as one piece. This gives both a sharp finish with no joins, and also reduces the chances of leaks through these joins later on.
Once the block work and rendering is complete, we’ll be having square-profile downpipes installed to complement the gutters.
In addition to our MVHR, there’s also been a lot of work on electical cabling.
Mark Warden from MW Property Solutions started work on the first fix electrics which includes running cabling for all the lights and power sockets, as well as network cabling for the places where we need to plug in devices to access the internet.
It’s not visible in this photo but it’s surprising just how much cabling goes into a new house. Maybe I’ll get a photo of the garage where it all leads and where it currently looks like a telephone exchange!
If you’re building a house these days, you can be pretty sure it’s going to be well insulated and pretty airtight.
What this means in practice is that you generally need some way of getting stale air out and fresh air in. One way is using a combination of trickle vents above windows and extractor fans in bathrooms, but a newer way is adding an MVHR (mechanical ventilation and heat recovery) system.
This system has a combination of input and output points around the house, connected by ducting to a central unit. Input points extract air out of rooms such as kitchens and bathrooms, while output points force fresh new air into rooms such as bedrooms and other living areas.
The heat recovery part retains the heat inside the house by extracting it from the stale air and using it to heat the fresh air as it comes in. This part can be bypassed in summer when the fresh air is already warm.
We’re now in the process of having the ducting fitted, which is the first service generally to be fitting inside the ceiling, followed by water pipes and electric cables. The ducting is a new, flat style which leaves more room for other services and insulation, and each input/output point has a short, flexible foil section eventually leading to a discreet vent in the finished ceiling.
Our house has been designed with the “cold roof” – that is, the loft space is intended to not be heated and be used as a storage space rather than a heated area that could be a room.
Since it’s a “cold roof”, the part we need to insulate is its floor (or the first floor ceiling) so we can keep the heat inside the main house and out of the loft. In many existing houses, this would be done using rolls of mineral wool or maybe blown insulation.
However, since we have a new build in quite an exposed area, we need to go one step further to ensure we have an energy efficient house that also has a usable loft space – that means installting rigid insulation panels (also known as PIR). These panels are roughly twice as efficient as mineral wool, and so you only need half the thickness for the same effect.
In our case, our ceiling joists are 100mm thick, so we started off with 100mm thick insulation panels, cut to fit between the joists. The carpenter had already installed ceiling battens to fit the plasterboard on to, which keep the insulation in place, but also make it a lot harder to get it in place to start with (especially when combined with timbers running across the top of the joists which act to “sandwich” the insulation in between)!
At this point, we’ve stopped to allow the plumbers to install our MVHR system (which will be running partially in the loft). After this, we will overlay 100mm of mineral wool on top. This will allow the insulation to run over and around the MVHR ducts as well as in all the intricate gaps between and around the roof trusses. Once this is then boarded over to provide a stable platform, we’ll have our finished loft space.
Now that our screed floor is dry enough to stand on, plumbing work has recommenced with the installation of the underfloor heating for the first floor.
Unlike the ground floor where the pipes are encased in the screed, we’ll be carpeting most of the first floor. Therefore, the underfloor heating pipes are weaved through the joists and clipped to the underside of the wood floor boards.
Like the ground floor, there is a separate manifold on the first floor where all the pipes terminate. Eventually, this will be connected to the boiler to distribute hot water and heat the various parts of the first floor.
Today’s been an exciting day! The team from Smoothflow Liquid Screeding arrived in the morning to prepare the floor and make sure everything was ready.
Once they’d calculated how much screed they needed, they made the phone call to the supplier and only a couple of hours later, we had a screeded floor!
The house currently looks like a swimming pool, but the hairline cracks show it’s starting to dry. It will take up to three months or so for the screed to completely dry and be ready for flooring, but within a couple days we’ll be able to walk on it.
Next up, the plumbing team will be back to start work on the underfloor heating for the first floor.